Bioliquid fertilizer (BLF; also known as organic liquid fertilizer) has become popular with ECHO’s network and smallholder farmers around the world. ECHO West Africa introduces and instructs on how to prepare this amendment in ECHO West Africa Note 1 (Sié Kansié, 2017). You can also watch this short video [Lightning Talk - Bioliquid Fertilizer | ECHOcommunity.org] sharing one approach to making and applying BLF.
In March (2022), we made BLF as outlined by Sié Kansié, 2017 with the utilization of pigeon manure and the new growth (leaves and stems) of Mexican sunflower (Tithonia diversifolia). We thoroughly mixed the ingredients until uniform in appearance. The container was covered with a breathable cloth, allowing for aerobic decomposition. We mixed the BLF daily for the duration of the trial. Each week (including the week of initial mixing: week 0), we thoroughly mixed the BLF and obtained a sample. Samples were sent to a laboratory for analysis.
Nutrient content over time
Nutrient levels increased over time during the first few weeks, before reaching a peak and leveling off. Nitrogen content was highest at the third week after initial mixing (Figure 1A). Phosphorus content peaked at week five (Figure 1B). Potassium content followed a similar trend as phosphorus, increasing rapidly until week five (Figure 1C). The average pH of the BLF was 6.76.
In summary, we saw that:
Figure 1. Total nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content of the BLF over time.
These trends indicate that the optimum time to apply BLF is earlier (2 to 3 weeks) for nitrogen than other nutrients. Factors such as temperature, thoroughness of mixing, and sample handling may have impacted nutrient content values over sampling weeks.
Have you make BLF before? What ingredients did you use and what was your experience?
Reference
Sié Kansié, B. 2017. The preparation of organic liquid fertilizer. ECHO West Africa Note no. 1.
Thanks Stacey for sharing that information. Very interesting. I had not thought about taking ours to a lab for testing but I will.
We make ours in 250 gallon tanks using a variety of mixtures but most often comfrey leaves, manure, molasses and raw milk. In addition, we add something we make that we call MM (Mountain Micro organisms) which is similar to KNF-2. The difference is KNF is grown aerobically and MM is grown anaerobically. But they both look the same and have the same benificial effect on plants, soil and animals…including us. In fact, I just finished making a 4 liter batch that will be ready for me to drink in about 8 to 10 days.
That which we make in 250 gallon tanks if for injecting into our drip irrigation lines. For foliar sprays and as a starter for bokashi, we make in 55 gal barrels with a variety of mixtures but most often with only MM, molasses, milk or kefir. It ferments for 30 days or more before using. Blessings.
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Thanks for the information. I have a couple of follow-up questions:
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Does anyone have experience using this bio-liquid fertilizer with root crops, such as potato, or with rice fields? Are there any additional considerations to take into account?
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Aside from the potential to burn leaves, are there any concerns (health concerns in particular) with application of this fertilizer to above ground produce or root crops soon to be harvested? I believe I read that application around the base of plants is better, but in case it gets on produce, does the fermentation time reduce or eliminate the potential for pathogens in the bio-liquid?
Thank you!
Hi Lance,
Thank you for these important questions! I’ve reached out to the ECHO West Africa Office who have been training and implementing bioliquid fertilizer for longer than we have in the ECHO Florida office. Hopefully they can get back to you about question 1.
I’ve referred your second question to our Research Associate who has been working more closely with bioliquid fertilizer in the recent past. We hope to get you answers/recommendations soon!
Stacy
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Hi Lance,
Great questions. My name is Guin, I’m a Research Assistant in the Ag division.
If you hope to replace your chemical fertilizers for your root crops you should avoid using any substitutes that would contain non-composted or fresh animal manure, at least four months prior to harvest. Root crops are in direct contact with soil and more susceptible to contamination by pathogens such as E. coli, listeria, salmonella, and other enteric bacteria found in animal manure used in biofertilizers, see:
ECHOs current recipe includes wood ash (wood ash contains potassium to increase water use efficiency by plants), nitrogen-rich tithonia leaves, and animal manure (a great source of nitrogen). However, bioliquid fertilizers can be composed of many different things. Commercial bioliquid fertilizers can use algae extract, bone meal, tested or sanitized manure, or even approved chemicals as a nitrogen source.
ECHO’s bioliquid fertilizer also states the user should have frequent stirring as a form of agitation that increases oxygen dispersal throughout the fertilizer. Higher amounts of oxygen decrease the growth of many pathogenic microbes commonly found in animal feces (manure). The wood ash also helps to raise the pH to above 7, because many pathogen microbes thrive in a pH of 5.2 to 6, see above literature for details.
Finally, another thing to consider about the frequency and amount of bio liquid fertilizer to use on root crops, relates to the specific need for larger roots than foliage. Higher amounts of N may increase foliage while compromising roots.
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Guin,
This is very helpful information. Thank you.
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Does anyone have experience using BLF with onions and garlic? The people in my area have irrigated gardens in the winter and their primary crop is garlic and onions. They typically flood irrigate around a 2x2m section once every 7 to 10 days or so.
I am thinking of using the BLF either as a foliar fertilizer or adding it to the irrigation water. I haven’t done the calculations yet as to how much a 2x2m section would need.
I’m looking for general advice. Concentrations, frequency, foliar vs irritated etc.
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@Emma_Weiss do you have any recommendations based on your experience with ECHO Global Seed bank plots? They are fertigated (through irrigation water) with BLF, correct?
@JaredDeYoung @Stacy_Swartz
Yes, we use bioliquid fertilizer for fertigation, though it is mixed with synthetic to round out the P and K for seed production, and it’s distributed through drip lines rather than flooding. I don’t recommend using BLF as a foliar feed, mainly because I don’t have experience with it, but also because of the potential for burning unless it is highly diluted. We apply it 3x a week and the rate is based on our fertigation doser but equates to about 14L of BLF per 0.05 acres, dosed during 20-40 minutes of irrigation time. I would just mind that the BLF is sufficiently diluted which may vary depending on how concentrated you make the batch, so it’s hard to throw a number out there. I hope that helps! If you try it out let us know how it works out.
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Based roughly on what you do in Florida compared to what’s here, I’m going to recommend that people pour the BLF into the flood irrigation water entering their 2¾ x 2¾ sections at a rate of 1.5L/8 days. The most easily accessible manure here is donkey/horse. I do have an open question regarding the soil type. In people’s gardens here it’s mostly clay/silt whereas in Florida its almost all sand. Anything special I should note about soil type?
Additionally, I’ve been wondering about spiking the BLF with white sugar to boost carbon content for the microbes and theoretically increasing the microbial uptake of the various nutrients in the soil profile which would then make the nutrients more available to plants. Any thoughts on this second idea. The sugar would be added shortly before application, no sense in adding alcohol or vinegar to the soil.
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With a finer soil texture, depending on your organic matter, you may need to apply less frequently than in our sandy soils which leach easily. Without knowing more about your soils, though, it’s hard to say. Depending on pH you may need to use more ash in your BLF to avoid acidifying your soil over the long term.
I’ve tested a number of starch sources for compost teas (molasses, potato, cassava, etc.) but not white sugar so I can’t say how it would compare to other sources. However, if you’re using enough plant material in the BLF and using it in a timely manner once it’s done fermenting, I’m not sure that it would be necessary to add additional carbon to the batch to boost microbial content. Over the last year I’ve experimented with inoculating my batches with EM (effective microorganisms) rather than native soil and while I don’t have a lot of data from that, my observation has been that the batches ferment faster and more completely (less sludge/debris left behind). So, if you’re already making IMOs or using something like EM, you could add that to your batch to improve its microbial diversity.
Eventually, I’m hoping to do some testing with aeration to see if that helps increase the proportion of aerobic microbes to anaerobes. Stirring the batch frequently might be an easy way to keep the beneficial microbes around in the meantime.
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I’ve been asked to lead a training for BLF in a field crop setting here. People mostly grow sorghum, pearl millet, peanuts, cowpeas, and sesame. The participants don’t have the ability to carry a large amount of diluted solution and there isn’t enough water near their fields to dilute it.
My thoughts are don’t. In the FGW/FFF training it suggests, when using chemical fertilizers, apply them 10cm or so away from the base of the plant. Additionally, when applying urea in the US, growers band it in the inter row. Both of these techniques are used with burning the plant
What are your thoughts for applying a shot glass (100ml) of medium strength pure BLF about 20-30cm away from the base of sorghum (planted in bunches of 5 -20 plants, as per local practice.)? Application would either be while planting or after the first weeding.
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Hi Jared,
I have never tried it personally, but I think that the BLF when banded or micro-dosed near feeder roots (not directly at the base of plants), you aren’t likely to burn the crops with BLF as long as the BLF is mature (mixed and decomposed for at least 2 weeks). I would also wait to apply until crops are old enough to have some lateral roots that reach that far away so that you maximize the use of the fertilizer. Of the crops you mentioned, peanuts and cowpea may benefit more from earlier P (helps with root formation in legumes) so perhaps you could apply a bit of compost or aged manure for those crops. I think early BLF might burn them if you use manure high in N. Additionally, I’d make sure to try this on a small section of the field before applying it across the whole field to make sure that crops don’t get fertilizer burn. If you do try this, let us know what you learn!
I’ve asked our ECHO West Africa staff who have the most experience with BLF with dryland crops to give their input as well!
Stacy
Hi Jared,
Below is the response from Hassan, at ECHO West Africa:
Thank you for associating us with the discussion. We do not have a lot of experiences on the use of BLF in pure. But it came back to us in the Mouhoun loop region in Burkina that 2 producers have already tried it and the result was good. After their experiences, our supervisor in the region also tried it with acceptable results. But they all applied on cereals (corn and sorghum) by depositing the BLF about 20 cm from the foot of the plant outside the FFF holes but with a soil previously watered by rain or irrigation. It should be added that the quantity of BLF used next to each plant is 10 ml, that is to say what a 1litre bottle cap can contain. It is also good that in the FFF hole we have no more than 2 plants to avoid too much competition.
The number of applications is done according to the needs of the plant and also the quality of the soil in nutrients. In general, they made 2 or 3 applications each 2 weeks after sowing but always avoiding the BLF touching the roots when they are visible on the surface.
Regarding legumes they do not need to be brought too much nitrogen. So if you can apply enough compost before sowing it is enough for good development. Finally I suggest that you face your own experimentation on a small area before disclosing it. I hope I was useful, thank you
