Here are some things to consider in organic tomato production.
I prefer wide spacing, very wide spacing up to 5 or more feet apart per plant. You can fill the space with a crop like onions which allow more air to flow which dries out the leaf faster.
Planting borders or edges if farming on a small scale is great because this is where the air flows most quickly.
Crop rotation and avoiding areas with Sodom Apple is important.
Mulch with clean (no dirt) thick (2 inches) will suppress weeds and conserve moisture.
Begin pruning lowest leaves and branches, particularly those touching mulch and stake when gets 12 or more inches tall. Use chlorine or alcohol solution to sterilize every few plants or you will spread disease. Pruning and leaf removal
Is not needed as much in the dry season.
I use wood ash one or two teaspoons at higher pH and at lower pH one or two tablespoons or charcoal dust or by product from charcoal production. Charcoal dust or debris does not change the pH much so you can add more.
Never enter when wet, work with youngest plants first.
Consider Single row tunnels with plastic you can raise when the clouds get dark before rain and lower the rest of the time. If you are raising in a hoop house plant only the very highest value crops to recoup your investment.
Tomatoes are not heavy nitrogen feeders and too much nitrogen is not good (favors vegetative growth over fruit production). I use human urine for fertilizer but that could be for smaller to intermediate size growers. This gives me a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients.
Using the same planting hole each year has advantages if you ameliorating the soil in the planting hole if using hand labor.
When growing transplants use soil which is high in organic matter but not high in nitrogen. You want your transplants to grow slowly so they can have thick stems. Too much shade in nursery bed reduces potential to survival in the field, but shade after transplanting greatly increases survival or reduces transplant shock. The transplants grown in a nursery bed should be kept more on the dry side to stress them and exposed to as much sun as possible the last 2 or three weeks before planting. A little manure tea is great at planting time. Then a couple weeks after transplanting start fertilizer such as urine or other. Too much shade is not good.
Wilting diseased areas should be isolated and not hoed or walked through if possible because this spreads the disease
These are the methods I teach here in South Sudan and are based on personal experience.